Finishing & Bottling

1 — Gravity is stable

Take a hydrometer reading, then take another 48–72 hours later. If both readings are identical, fermentation is complete. If the second reading is lower by even a single gravity point fermentation is still active. Bottling a still-fermenting mead will result in, at minimum, a burst cork or blown cap; at worst, a broken bottle: what's known as a "Bottle Bomb".

Airlock activity is not a reliable indicator. A mead can appear entirely still while CO₂ continues to off-gas from a very slow fermentation. Confirm with gravity readings, not with the airlock.

2 — Clarity is acceptable

Clear mead means the yeast has settled and any particulate is compacted at the bottom of the vessel. Bottling a hazy mead is fine for personal batches, but it typically means more sediment in the bottle and a shorter shelf life. Cold crashing and fining agents improve clarity significantly if appearance or longevity matters for your batch.

3 — pH is in range

A finished mead should read between 3.7 and 4.0 on a calibrated pH meter. Below 3.5 the mead is uncomfortably tart and may indicate a problem during fermentation; above 4.1 there is a risk of microbial instability in the bottle over time. If pH is outside the target range, investigate before bottling rather than bottling and hoping for the best.

4 — Taste test

It's generally preferable to bulk age a mead in the carboy before bottling to ensure it has reached its desired flavor profile and complexity. Using oak chips (or blocks) to add tannin and mouth feel, flavoring agents, and back sweetening in bulk allow for more consistency and allow some control over the final character of the mead. If it tastes good to you at this stage, it will likely taste good in the bottle; if it tastes off, those off-flavors may become more pronounced over time in the bottle. Once it's in the bottle it's effectively in a micro-climate and any flaws can become more pronounced. A few meadmakers use a rule of thumb of 1 month aging per 1% ABV, but this is a very rough guideline and ultimately, only the palate can decide if it's ready.

Crown caps

The 26 mm pressed-metal cap used on beer bottles. Applied with a bench capper or hand capper, an inexpensive tool that takes no skill to master. Crown caps form an airtight seal with no meaningful oxygen transmission, making them equally suitable for still and sparkling meads. They are single-use: once removed, a cap cannot be resealed.

Crown caps are the lowest-cost closure per bottle and are the practical default for carbonated session meads and everyday batches where presentation is secondary to reliability. Use with standard beer bottles or thick-walled champagne-style bottles; avoid thin still-wine bottles for carbonated batches.

Flip-top / Grolsch

A ceramic stopper attached to the bottle neck by a wire bail, with a rubber gasket providing the seal. Requires no tools and no separate closures, the stopper being an integral part of the bottle. The bottles are reusable indefinitely; the rubber gaskets degrade over time and should be replaced every 2–3 years, or sooner if cracking or flattening is visible.

Flip-top bottles rated for carbonation are suitable for moderately carbonated meads at homebrewing volumes. They are not ideal for multi-year cellaring as the gasket introduces a potential point of oxygen ingress over long storage periods. Best suited to batches intended for drinking within 12–18 months of bottling. They can be relatively expensive upfront, but the reusability makes them cost-effective over multiple batches. We have found reusing lemonade bottles with flip-top closures to be a good budget-friendly option, but ensure they are rated for carbonation and are in good condition before use.

Regular cork

A straight-sided cork inserted flush with the bottle neck using a bench or floor corker. Standard wine bottles take a 24 mm cork; most wine-style corkers handle them without adjustment. Suitable for still meads only — a corked still-wine bottle is not rated for carbonation pressure, and a sparkling mead will push the cork out or crack the bottle under typical conditioning pressures. Handheld corking machines are 'challenging' to use: we favor floor-standing corkers for their superior leverage and stability, which makes it easier to achieve a proper seal without breaking corks or bottles. For us, they make the process a joy rather than a chore.

Natural cork allows very slow oxygen transmission, which supports the gradual oxidation that rounds out high-gravity meads over years of cellaring. Synthetic cork eliminates the risk of TCA (cork taint, a musty off-flavour caused by mould in natural cork) and provides essentially no oxygen transmission, functioning more like a rubber stopper than a traditional cork. For meads intended for cellaring beyond two years, natural cork is preferred; for meads to be drunk within one to two years, synthetic cork is reliable and consistent.

Cork covers and seals, while not strictly necessary, add a professional finish, protect the cork from dust and insects and serve as a tamper-seal. Two common styles are wax capsules, which are dipped or poured over the cork and neck, and shrink capsules, which are heat-shrunk over the cork and neck. Shrink capsules are generally easier to apply at home using a basic heat gun. They come in a variety of colors and finishes, allowing for some customization of your bottles' appearance.

Cork & cage (mushroom cork + muselet)

A mushroom-shaped champagne cork held in place by a twisted wire cage (muselet). Requires thick-walled, pressure-rated champagne-style bottles and a champagne corker which is a larger, more expensive tool than a standard wine corker. The system handles high carbonation pressure safely and provides the premium presentation associated with champagne and sparkling wine.

Cork and cage is the correct closure for high-carbonation sparkling meads (2.5–3.5 CO₂ volumes) intended for longer cellaring or elevated presentation. The mushroom cork, once inserted, expands inside the bottle neck and is difficult to remove without the characteristic twist-and-pull.

Champagne Hoods (coiffes) are the conical seal shrunk over the entire cork and cage assembly, providing a sleek appearance and additional protection against tampering and environmental factors. While not necessary for the integrity of the seal, Champagne Hoods can enhance the presentation of your sparkling meads, especially for special occasions or gifts. They are available in various materials, colors and finishes and metal foil types can usually be applied by the homebrewer by hand, needing no special equipment.

Temperature

The ideal storage temperature is 10–15°C — cool, stable, and without significant daily or seasonal fluctuation. Chemical reactions that drive ageing (esterification, acid softening, slow oxidation) proceed slowly and predictably at these temperatures. Higher temperatures accelerate ageing, which is occasionally useful for a short period but tends to produce flat, dull character over longer storage. Avoid locations near radiators, in uninsulated outbuildings, or anywhere that swings significantly between summer and winter.

Orientation

Store bottles on their side for natural cork closures. Contact between the cork and the liquid keeps the cork hydrated and prevents it from drying out and shrinking — a dry cork allows oxygen ingress and the mead will oxidise over time.

Store upright for crown caps, flip-tops, and synthetic cork. These closures do not require hydration, and upright storage keeps sediment compacted at the bottom where it is easy to avoid when pouring.

Light

UV light degrades organic compounds in mead and accelerates spoilage. Dark glass provides significant protection; clear glass provides almost none. Store clear bottles in a cardboard box or dark cupboard. Even dark-glass bottles benefit from being kept away from direct sunlight and fluorescent lighting over the long term.